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Deterioration becomes evident after sojourns longer than 5weeks at extreme altitudes (>5,000–5,500m), which are commonly endured by climbers on 8,000m peak expeditions where the base camps are situated above 5,000m. These deleterious effects include impaired physical performance ( Cerretelli and di Prampero, 1985 Hoppeler et al., 1990a Cerretelli, 1992), recovery from fatigue ( Milledge et al., 1977), disturbed sleep ( Weil and White, 2001), cognitive disorders ( Raichle and Hornbein, 2001), and weight loss ( Boyer and Blume, 1984).
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Prolonged exposure to altitude not only involves the “positive changes” of acclimatization, but also “negative changes” of high-altitude deterioration that affect physical and mental condition ( Ward, 1954 West et al., 2007). Camps are usually 1,000m in altitude apart, so overnight stays are not recommended for the first ascent to higher camps ( Kupper et al., 2012). Acclimatization profiles for expeditions to extreme altitudes (>5,500m) often involve “yo-yo tactics,” where ascents to high camps are separated by rest in the base camp, usually between 3,500 and 5,500m. An ascent rate of 300–500m per day increases in sleeping elevation over 2,500m is recommended at high and very high altitudes (2,500–5,500m Luks, 2012). Pollard and Murdoch (1997) and Broadhurst (2008) classify the range of altitudes that affect climbers as sea level (7,500m). Guidelines for mountaineers therefore include setting adequate ascent rates to higher altitudes, which are contingent on the highest altitude of sojourn being targeted ( Kupper et al., 2012 Luks, 2012). Apart from the respiratory and hematological changes, acclimatization involves other systems that adjust to altitude over different periods, so mountaineers struggle to determine when they have been sufficiently acclimatized to high altitudes. These improvements occur within days to weeks at altitude ( Lundby et al., 2004). The process of acclimatization focuses on increasing ventilation and raising hematocrit levels. We found no significant changes in maximal aerobic power, maximal oxygen uptake, body weight, fat-free mass, total body water, hemoglobin, and hematocrit.Ĭonclusion: A month-long exposure to very high altitude led to impaired sea-level anaerobic performance and anaerobic threshold, increased maximal tidal volume, and depleted body fat mass, but had no effect on maximal aerobic power, maximal oxygen uptake, or hemoglobin and hematocrit levels.Īltitude acclimatization is defined as the sum of positive changes in an organism that reduce the risk of acute altitude illness and improve performance in hypoxic conditions at altitudes above 2,500m ( West et al., 2007). min −1, body fat mass from 14.0☓.1 to 11.5☓.3%, and a significant increase ( pResults: We found a significant ( p<0.01) decrease in maximal anaerobic power (MAP WAnT) from 9.9☑.3 to 9.2☑.3W
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Their aerobic and anaerobic performance, body weight, body composition, and hematological parameters were examined at an altitude of 100m within 7days before the expeditions and 7days after they descended below 3,500m. All had been on mountaineering expeditions to 7,000m peaks, where they spent 30☑days above 3,500m with their average sojourn at 4,900☖0m. Materials and Methods: Ten alpinists, nine males and one female, with a mean age of 27±4years, participated in the study. This study aimed to determine the effect of a prolonged sojourn at very high altitudes (above 3,500m) on subsequent sea-level physical performance, body weight, body composition, and hematological parameters.